Saturday, June 25, 2011

Brugge and Brussel









The smallest street, only a metre wide


The market square at night after the rain


Fountain in Astridpark


Carriage rides from the market square


Along a section canal with the old wooden buildings from 1600s



Our train journey from Tours to Brugge was a test of strength. We needed it. First we took the fairly fast trip to Gare Montparnasse in Paris. The walk from the TGV platform to the Metro seemed endless with lots of stairs and left us rather exhausted. We eventually arrived at Gare du Nord and waited only a short time before we boarded our Thalys train to Brussels. For the first time we were checked onto the train by an attendant. No ticket, you weren't allowed on. A snack and drinks were very welcome as we relaxed into our comfortable first class seats. We followed the clouds and rain all the way to Brussels where we changed trains for Brugge. This took us through Gent so we were seeing quite a lot of Belgium on the way. A taxi from the station to our hotel was the only way as we had worked out it was about a 25 minute walk and we had no energy left.
Our hotel was lovely. Old world charm with all the modern comforts, the hotel
had a pool and sauna (we didn't get to use them) and a very nice Jazz Bar where we sat every evening for a drink and a hot chocolate before bed. It was here on arrival that disaster struck. I pulled at the extension on my bag and the handle snapped off. This was the beginning of my huge dislike for the bag and my dream that David would walk through the door with a replacement. (It never happened.)

On arrival, we set off on our usual walk to get our bearings and to find somewhere to eat. The market square was only a few minutes walk from our hotel and as Brugge is so compact within the canal boundary, we were able to do a lot of exploring over the five day stay. After breakfast, we set of on long walks and then settled on a restaurant for a good lunch around 2 in the afternoon. This meant we could get through to breakfast and it helped to counter the large amounts of chocolate we were devouring along with the usual vin rouge and dessert at every meal. It was Belgium and one must sample as much chocolate as possible.

One morning I took a mini bus tour of the city while David wandered with his best friend, Nikon. Later we walked the route taken by the bus and had a longer look at the most picturesque sites in the city. We also took a horse and carriage ride along the flagstone streets. This was an interesting experience as the cars, horses, bicycles and pedestrians all share the same areas, wide and narrow, and have such patience for each other. We visited the churches and of course the canal and even managed a couple of museums. The whole stay was so relaxing, we were sad to leave Brugge which is such a pretty place.

Grand Place in Brussels with the Hotel de Ville on right


David in Brussel Park in a rain break


Chocolate heaven and too many to choose from


Busy pedestrian main street in Brussels


A 14th century wooden carving in the museum


We left in a taxi in the rain for the station and our trip to Brussels. Once again we travelled through Gent and the Belgian countryside. Our hotel was close to Brussel Nord station but even the short walk dragging a bag with no extension was hard work. We wasted no time in our room and walked to the Grand Place, a square surrounded by beautiful old buildings. We were dogged by rain for most of our stay, and only managed to walk to the Palace by sheltering along the way under awnings, or stopping in arcades until the shower passed. Not a lot of exploring took place and as the days were also quite cool and windy, we ended up staying inside to watch the tennis at Wimbledon. We did manage a nice lunch at a restaurant on our last day and had vin rouge and a delicious dessert. Back in the room we prepared for the early Sunday start and our train changes from Brussels to Tournai to Lille to Calais. We had booked our ferry crossing to Dover for three in the afternoon and had to hope no train delays occurred. Monday was hopefully going to be a quieter day in Dover before boarding the Eurodam for the Baltic adventure.


Tower in the Grand Place

One of the many gold statues in the city



Another narrow laneway between shops

Tours, France

The Loire river at sunset


One of the many narrow streets in Tours


The postie on her rounds in Tours




Gothic splendour in this magnificent cathedral St Gatien



The train to Tours took us through the countryside via Bourdeau and we arrived late due to a mixup with the trains, and yours truely marching David off the platform in search of our hotel, when we were supposed to change trains for Tours at the end of the line! We eventually arrived at our hotel, clean and comfortavle and on the quiet side of the building away from the main street. The only problem was the lift. It had a major jump on arrival at any floor and my balance was not happy. I took to the stairs and after a day of walking, the five flights felt like ten. We followed our usual practice of a good breakfast followed by a morning of walking, a late lunch around two with the regulation vin rouge and this kept us happy until supper or the next morning. One night we ate in the hotel restaurant after a long afternoon out.
We enjoyed looking at the many gothic churches with their magnificent stained glass windows. Such vibrant colours for work that is many hundreds of years old. We did a long walk to North Tours in the hot sun and wished we hadn't. It wasn't at all scenic and the uphill walk seemed endless until we found a connection back down to the Loire.

On the second day we booked an afternoon mini bus tour to Chenonceau and Amboise. It was lovely. Our guide was full of enthusiasm and did a lot of driving with his hands waving in the air. We managed to stay on the road! Chateau de Chenonceau was our first stop and we were given free time to wander around the building and grounds. It was really worth the trip and Diane de Poitiers garden was in full bloom and spectacular. We managed a light lunch and then back on the bus to Amboise. Here we visited Chateau du Clos Luce, the home of Leonardo da Vinci in the last few years of his life. It was given to him by his friend, Francois I and although we shared the visit with what seemed 1000 school children, it was fascinating to see the many inventions erected in the grounds and the IBM miniature display set up in a museum with Leonardo's drawings above each one. It was an amazing display funded by Bill Gates!

Next on the tour we went to Amboise Chateau royal, the home of many of the French kings. High on the hill, it allowed a wonderful view over the town and the river Loire. The Chateau had many interesting furnishings from the 16th and 17th centuries as well as beautiful paintings and tapestries.

We did have some rain in Tours which meant we spent time in our room and prevented us from more exploring. It was interesting to visit this city, but not so exciting after the wonderful time we had in Toulouse. We were thankful the station was just around the corner from the hotel as the bags seem to be getting heavier the longer we are away. Postcards are not that heavy!!

The garden of Diane de Poitiers in full bloom

Chateau de Chenonceau when the sun left us


The home of Leonardo da Vinci - Chateau du Clos Luce


Amboise from the Chateau Royal


View over Amboise to the Loire


Next adventure - the trip to Brugge.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Toulouse




We were off to an early start with John performing his last chauffeur duty. Left at Nimes Gare with time to spare was spent watching the board for our platform number to appear. There have to be more interesting things to do at stations!




Our train to Narbonne on time, we had an fast and interesting ride close to the coast as we neared our destination.
The coast as we neared Narbonne

Through the door at Narbonne Gare and out onto the wide paved area outside, we joined a large group of people, all supposedly going to Toulouse. Wrong. The majority were headed for Carcassone and we were the minority. It being a Sunday, and Monday a holiday, the railway was closed for works and we were to bus it to Toulouse, a journey of 3 hours. After a considerable waiting time, the first bus arrived - for Carcassone. Then the second and third and fourth - all for Carcasonne. The sun was beating down and we now have sunburn on faces, arms, legs, feet! The SNCF assistants were becoming increasingly uneasy as a variey of tourists verbally attacked them over the lack of buses. One woman distraught and in tears because her family with 4 children were due to fly out of Carcasonne for Ireland, resorted to taking a taxi. We were bought bottled water and a dinner pack to keep us quiet. Eventually, when there was just the Toulouse group left, a Carcasonne bus driver was talked into taking us. We sat behind the driver who yawned most of the way. Just a little unnerving!
At last Toulouse and a taxi to our luxurious hotel. Again, thank you Joelle. It was just heaven!







Sheer Luxury
Grand Hotel De l'Opera















We wandered around the Capitole and found a restaurant for our evening meal. Bless the French for eating late. They were there in the hundreds and we enjoyed the relaxing time after a long day.



















The stained glass window in one of the many gothic churches - Cathedrale Sainte-Etienne






Another public holiday! After a good continental breakfast, we returned to our room to contemplate venturing out in the rain. A bit of photo downloading and emailing and the sky seemed to clear, so we were off exploring the city. Having been shown the best areas to visit by the Desk, we fast tracked to the best first, and left the wandering aimlessly for later in th day. We visited many beautiful gothic style churches, museums, had lunch in The Flowers Cafe - delicious with a vin rouge, but ate too much and had to walk for the rest of the day as punishment. In the afternoon we fitted in a cruise on the Garonne that took us into a canal where we had a little excitment as the boat was lifted by the rushing water to the next level. Then lots more walking before we allowed ourselves an icecream for dinner!










Climbing the canal on our cruise of the Garonne












The delightful Flowers Cafe where we lunched until full!








Day two saw us up early for breakfast and our meeting with the charming Jean-Francois, the Hotel Director. With a few more hints on what to see and do, we set out to walk the canals. We wandered along the long avenue of trees to the Midi Canal, then back along its bank to the city where we had lunch in another cafe on the square. The afternoon was spent wandering around shops while David downloaded photos and slept, and I managed to find Galleries Lafayette - what a surprise! Really enjoyed being lost in the old city, wandering aimlessly looking in shop windows and wishing I could take it all home, at a lower price than labelled!







A walk along the banks of the Midi Canal








Visit to the Musee St-Raymond and its fabulous Roman

Pont Neuf at night after sunset





Our last morning after packing, we wandered around the old city, had a coffee and hot chocolate, and took a taxi to Toulouse Matabiau for some more exciting Departure Board watching. then a long journey through Bordeau to Tours.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Calvisson



Late morning we arrived in Nimes from Lyon to be met by Sue and John. We wandered around the old town before finding a seat for our lunch, across the road from the Arena. Then to Calvisson where we settled into our home for the coming week.




Archway into the Nimes Arena


Special friends

Calvisson

Supper


Each day at 7am, a morning walk, but I only walked on three days.



Over the week, chauffered by John, we visited Sommieres, wandering along the river bank, looking through the shops and having a delicious lunch in a Creperie beside the river. David climbed to the Trois Moulins - the three windmills while we had a French lesson. Rather challenging for me.


Sommieres and the Creperie at centre left

A day in Marseille, a delicious lunch, a bus to the Basilica Notre Dame for an amazing view of the city and Mediterranean, a little train down to the town and then back home for vin rouge and supper.

Marseille from Basilica Notre dame
Marseilles

Day three a trip to Aigues-Mortes where we parked and walked into the walled village. Shopping heaven but the "shopping police" were with us! Ice cream, coffee and a visit to Le-Grau-du-Roi where we wandered along the tourist strip and canal that led to the Mediterranean Sea. More supplies of chocolates and vin rouge.

The beach at Le-Grau-du-Roi
Anyone for something white?
Aigues-Mortes walled village

Day of rest with a move into town then to lunch at the local Creperie and home for a siesta. Last day and a steam train ride from Anduze to St Jean-du-Gard. Lunch with vin rouge, then off to Uzes to meet up with friends before home to the Creperie for our last evening meal. Life is sooo hectic in the south of France.





The square in Uzes




So sick of this tune!

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Lyon and Vienne


To France - again!

We packed early and after another meagre breakfast, walked to the lake for our last look. After four rather miserable weather days, out came the sunshine. Caught the TGV for Lyon at 12:41 and sat in an almost empty 1st class coach with a group of six very loud and talkative Dutch in front of us. At Lyon we did a metro change and then at Bellecour, we set out for the hotel. It was hot!!! The sun had decided to shine brightly and we walked and walked the long way to our hotel. A very quick change into cool clothes and we were out again to check out our area. The hotel was only a few steps from the Saone River in a narrow laneway. On the corner was our evening eating place - Le Lyonaise Bouchon. We wandered across the footbridge and around old buildings in Vieux Lyon before changing for dinner. More vin rouge and a decent piece of steak for David and veal for me. Not big on greens!


Lyon

The Soane River



Saturday morning and the streets were alive with people. We headed for the Tourist Office, the caught the train to Vienne. This historic roman city is well worth a visit for its many ancient sites and the amazing archaeology found in The Old Church of Saint-Pierre. We walked the tourist walk, found by following the bronze markers in the pavement, and then side tracked to climb the steep hill to The Pipet. From here we had a spectacular view stretching out across the Rhone to the distant hills. A part of the walk was through the market and it was amazing to see the variety of goods for sale. Sadly, I bought only three postcards and a fridge magnet at the station. Merci beaucoup to Joelle who suggested we visit this city.

Vienne from The Pipet


Vienne street

Vienne town houses


Mosaic in The old church of Saint Pierre

Market day in Vienne



Back by train to Lyon where we once again, drank vin rouge (no, we are not closet drinkers) and ate more cheese and biscuits and chocolate. Half way through typing up my blog, I ran out of internet time. Bed to the throbbing sound of a band somewhere outside.

Our second day in Lyon was spent looking at the city sights. We wandered through the Sunday markets of fabulous stalls of fruit, vegetables and flowers, food of all types and smells and bought a half kilo of delicious cherries. Then up on the funicular to the Basilica high above the city. Here we arrived just in time for Mass and in the Crypt underneath this beautiful gothic building. A nun led the singing in a voice that had to be that of an angel. Goosebump material! We then headed down the hill to the Roman amphitheatre and odeon. Here a practice session with horses on a huge stage was in progress. Both sites were being set up for entertainment and I noticed that Bryan Ferry would be there some time this season. Should I stay on a little longer??


Market Day in Lyon


Down the steep hill we walked and into Vieux Lyon where we wandered the streets filled with people, crossed over the footbridge and back to the hotel for a short time before we headed out to lunch. The afternoon was spent on the water where we did the cruise along the Saone to its meeting with the Rhone, along the Rhone for some more sights and then back. More wandering and this time along the Saone river bank until we crossed and headed for the Hotel de Ville. Set in a large square, filled with crowds eating in restaurants and walking with families, this beautiful building with gold decoration was worth a visit. On we went back along the bank of the Rhone to our hotel for our last meagre meal of biscuits and cheese. No vin rouge left. So sad!

The Rhone River from cruise boat